STS front mount conversion nearly complete

[Torspd]

Thanks for all the pics. Give great ideas on how to possibly do mine.

Question, what gear did they do the pull in? It sounds like 3rd kinda.

 

[zr2ee]

it was actually in second gear i forgot to post about that, he said it would probably make more power in third but its such a long pull it was harder on the truck.

 

[Jap]

Very nice.

Pretty technical exhaust

 

[Torspd]

it was actually in second gear i forgot to post about that, he said it would probably make more power in third but its such a long pull it was harder on the truck.

I was wondering. Your #'s are lower than they would be if you were in 4th. When I was on the Mustang dyno and they did it on third gear, my whp was about 370 or so. Then they did the next in 4th and I got 407 whp. Go get it done in third or fourth and you will be over 400 whp

 

[zr2ee]

That must have been what they pulled on rexrunners cause his numbers were crazy, I'm not as worried about the numbers as long as I can smoke the diesels and wrx mustang evo kids/soccer moms in the urban assault vehicles

 

[Torspd]

Dude, you have to get a dyno in 3rd or 4th. Manually shift into it then do the run. You'll be the newest member to the 400 club if you do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IWCG7l_4hY

 

[zr2ee]

Dude, you have to get a dyno in 3rd or 4th. Manually shift into it then do the run. You'll be the newest member to the 400 club if you do.

lol i could always just crank it up to 12 pounds of boost, probably wouldn't be a member for very long but it gets the job done, i might send him a log and go back just to make sure everythings in kosure shape, the funky idle came back today as i got into work.

 

[Torspd]

I have a funky idle as well. We did a datalog on my idle (Xrunnit and I) to see what was happening. Two things we noticed: One, the AFR starts oscillating down then up, right before the (2 MAF starts doing the same thing.
So independantly, we need a "flow straightener" before the MAF. Also, the only other thing I can think of is that we need a large diaphram fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Torspd]

Here are some good links:

http://www.frsport.com/index.php?target=products&mode=searchImproved&q=tomei+fuel

http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-185106...tor-Adapter-Nissan-Subaru-Toyota_p_16572.html

http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-185002-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Type-L--Large-Diaphragm-_p_15258.html

 

[zr2ee]

awesome thanks man, i'll have to check those out this weekend, i got a few other quirks to work out, today's been the first time i've opened it up in a bit and i noticed my boost dropped way down, only getting about 4 pounds right now, peaks about 5 between shifts. i'll be checking for boost leaks and makin sure my boost controllers working ok...hopefully get my new coilovers thrown on too if i have time

 

[Torspd]

Where is your boost controller? When mine was first installed in the glove box, the lines were run in such a way that when the glove box was closed, the lines were pinched and it wouldn't work. I found that out in a round about way. So I had to re-route the lines a little.

 

[zr2ee]

right in the engine bay by the brake booster, nothing seems to be binding or kinked. not sure the best way to check for leaks

 

[Torspd]

What kind of boost controller do you have? Electronic or manual? When they did the dyno, did they have anything, even slightly, different than you do know?

Follow the lines and look for anything noticeable. If that doesn't work, then take an air compressor test to each line, and or the intake with an adaptor to pressurize the system, and listen for leaks.

 

[zr2ee]

it's manual, not sure the brand. i was looking on some write ups earlier about leak checkers so i'll probably be doin that this weekend if there's time, i did a quick once over and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary but i'll be goin back to double check

 

[zr2ee]

well i found the boost leak, don't ask me how i missed it before it was staring me right in the face. i'm pretty sure i've had one since the beginning as well cause after i fixed it...(temporarily) my truck hauled ass like a banshee :biggrin: but my boost was peaking too high, partial throttle and i got peaks up to 10.6 pounds so i had to crank it down a few notches...felt like i was going to blow out the rear end.

anyways the piping is somehow too short to fit into the coupling so i either need to have it extended....get new charge piping.....or just find a longer coupler. cheaper is better right now so i'm going to be looking for a coupling

 

[Torspd]

Two more problems I noticed in the pic. One, swap those worm gear clamps with some T-bolt clamps. Two, the end of that pipe,while being to short, doesn't have a bead line around it. Only those dimples to help keep the hose on. If you just get a longer silicone, use two clamps to help it stay put. Next better option is to have them lengthen the pipe and put a head line on it.

 

[zr2ee]

ya those dimples are supposed to fit into the reciever end of the bottom pipe but i can't even get them to touch, that silicon piece barily covered both ends. T-clamps would be nice, i'll probably pick some up sometime later. i don't think i've ever seen the ends with the bead line your talking about. i cranked the controller (hallman pro by the way) all the way out and it still hits 6 pounds. sure takes alot of revolutions to get it dialed in.

 

[zr2ee]

just added my 50hp stick-on mod

 

[melon16]

it felt more like 25 when i put mine on with the old butt dyno....that turbo must really compound the gains from that URD sticker placed there...haha.

 

[Torspd]

I have a pic that I can post a,little,later.